Video Notes:
Follow along as I make a Londinium Hood! This is an accessory to my ongoing medieval costume project.
IG: barrowsandwights
https://ko-fi.com/barrowsandwights
Notes:
Pattern:
– Londinium Hood pattern by Opus Elenae (@opuselenae)
https://ko-fi.com/s/ec44c3c4d8
– Lonidium Hood Dagging Expansion by Opus Elenae (@opuselenae)
https://ko-fi.com/s/5fd9596295
Materials:
– Wool felt purchased from ebay
– Mystery poly-blend purchased from ebay, overdyed with onion skins
– Linen thread from https://burnleyandtrowbridge.com/
Attributions:
Title Card:
Photo by Anton Atanasov
https://www.pexels.com/photo/landscape-photo-of-forest-1655901/
Logo designed and drawn by A.R. Gergler
Background Music:
Music: Medieval Chateau (loop) by Alexander Nakarada (www.creatorchords.com)
Licensed under Creative Commons BY Attribution 4.0 License
https://creativecommons.org/licenses/by/4.0/
Music: One Bard Band by Alexander Nakarada (www.creatorchords.com)
Licensed under Creative Commons BY Attribution 4.0 License
https://creativecommons.org/licenses/by/4.0/
Music: Tranquil Fields (Peaceful – Loop Ready) by Alexander Nakarada (www.creatorchords.com)
Licensed under Creative Commons BY Attribution 4.0 License
https://creativecommons.org/licenses/by/4.0/
Transition Video:
Fallen Leaves on the Ground by James Cheney
https://www.pexels.com/video/fallen-leaves-on-the-ground-5645686/
End Screen:
Photo by Anton Atanasov
https://www.pexels.com/photo/landscape-photo-of-forest-1655901/
Transcript:
This is not quite what I’d call good lighting, but it’s not quite 5:00 p.m. and it’s dark outside, so this is what we’re working with.
Hello. I’m Adrian. This is Barrows & Wights. And I didn’t really think ahead for this intro. So good. So professional.
I am finally nearing the end of the weaving for my medieval tunic. Finally. And that is invigorating my interest in working on this medieval costume. I figured while I’m sorting out the editing and getting things ready for the actual construction of this tunic, I would make an accessory to go with this costume.
This is the Londinium hood pattern by Opus Elanae here on YouTube. She has a Kofi store where this is available and I bought it. I’ve followed her channel for a while now and I’ve been thinking about making one of these hoods often on over the past year. I had it stuck in my head that I had to stick to- excuse me, phone. Rude. This is a fairly simple medieval hood, which can either be open at the front with buttons or closed up the front. The pattern is written to include the liripipe on this hood, which is that long kind of tail at the back of the hood. I will not be including the liripipe on my hood because of the fabric that I have, which I will go into in a minute. The thing that really pushed me to
go ahead and decide to make this hood is that she recently released an… expansion pack is the phrase that’s coming to mind. I know that’s not what it’s called. But it’s an addition to the hood to include dagging. That’s not going to show up on camera. I will insert footage here.
There are two fabrics that are going to be used for this project: the outer fabric and the lining fabric. The outer fabric, I’m very pleased about. I don’t remember how much I paid for it, but I was very excited when I got it in the mail. This is it. This is a gray wool. I have not burn tested it, I don’t think. It feels like real wool. I think I paid real wool prices, but like, this was a remnant on eBay. It is 42 in x 56 in, which I think will be cutting it a little bit close on this pattern. But because this is a fulled material, whether it’s entirely wool or not, I don’t have to worry about any edges fraying. Which, first of all means that the dagging will be very easy. I can just cut it out. But also I had the idea to cut the pattern without seam allowance and just butt the raw edges together and sew them that way because you can do that with a fulled wool felt type of fabric. Which will also allow me to practice several different types of hand sewing on this project. So that’s always good. The non-standard yardage is the main reason that I’m not including the liripipe on this project. I do not know if there will be enough fabric left because it’s kind of a weird amount. Also, this is a pretty thick kind of stiff fabric, so I’m not sure that the liripipe would really lend itself to this fabric anyway. So I’m just going to skip it on this one. Maybe I’ll make another hood with the liripipe some other time.
The lining is another eBay fabric. I had an eBay fabric phase. So I bought this months ago, probably in the first half of this year. It was marketed as wool, but it was very cheap so I wasn’t expecting 100% wool. This is the fabric. It’s a one yard cut of a 60in fabric. I did do a burn test on this fabric because as soon as I touched it, I knew it wasn’t 100% wool. It is a poly blend of something. It could be wool. I suspect it’s more likely to be a cotton because of how it took dye. I did overdye this fabric because it was a very uninspiring bland tan color. I overdyed it with onion skins, which usually gives a rich golden yellow almost orange sometimes, and this is the resulting color. It’s not even because my dye
pot is not very big and I just kind of shoved it in there and occasionally stirred it. You can see parts of this took the color really well, but most of it did not. Wool tends to naturally dye a more vibrant color than cotton, which is why I suspect this has at least some cotton content in it. The lining will be cut with seam allowances as per of the pattern and it will not include the dagging. It will line before the dagging. The dagging will be just be in the wool felt fabric.
I should also mention that the dagging expansion pack comes with five different dagging patterns. I don’t actually know how to pronounce this word, but I will look that up later. I’ve chosen this pattern uh because that shape reads medieval to me more than probably any of the others. I have also not decided if this will be an open front hood or a closed front hood. I will figure that out once I start handling the exterior fabric just because it thick. So I may opt to do a closed front just so I don’t have to try to do button holes through that thick fabric.
Hello Penny. Do you want to come be on the video? Oh, you’re waiting for for people to come home. Yeah, Oh there she goes. [barking] There’s nobody out there. Uhhuh. Going look at the camera? She’s not happy about this. I get a big hug? Do you have anything you want to say to YouTube?
Alright. Let’s make this thing.
[Music]
As you saw in the previous footage, I got a little creative with cutting out the pattern for this outer wool fabric. I ended up having to cut the hood main portion with some piecing just because rectangles are the easiest place to sort that out. Luckily, I had already planned on sewing this outer layer together without seam allowance just butting the ends up against each other. So I didn’t have to calculate any additional seam allowance for this seam or the seam across the top. There will just be three extra seams; one of these on each side and the top on the final product. You do what you got to do.
[Music]
Okay, so I just want to show up close what I’ve done here. Um, per the pattern I’ve inserted the gore into the hood. Because this is a lining, I’m not finishing the raw edges. I’ve just done a running stitch to keep them flat so it doesn’t bunch up inside the hood. And also because this is not going to be visible to anybody but you guys, this is how I’ve sort of secured down the corner of this gore. It’s real- it’s real rough. But uh yeah, clipped into the seam allowance and just kind of got everything as flat as possible and whip stitched it down. That’s a vacuum. The gore has the full half inch seam allowance. The hood section sort of tapers out. So I just ended up clipping in at the point in the gore seam allowance and folding down that little square, just whip stitching it down and pressing it real flat, just so that so that on this side it’s as flat as it could possibly be.
I did also opt to do some whip stitch reinforcement on this corner on both sides. One is neater than the other, as is usually the case.
[Music]
Yesterday I basted in the lining to my Londinium Hood and I constructed this sort of stand out of a milliner’s head and a yarn swift so that it could hang overnight. I don’t recall if I hung up any of these pieces previously to see if they would stretch. Where it curls inward, I pulled the lining too far down so I’m just going to clip those basting stitches and baste the lining in a little better. I do think there was a little bit of warping in either this wool felt or this interior lining because it was difficult to line up these gore seams. So I’m going to whip stitch these straight edges around the front and the actual hood opening and then I think for this bottom edge I’m going to do a herringbone stitch so that there’s a little bit of wiggle room along that bottom edge. It won’t necessarily be super tightly secure, but I’m going to fix this and then get started on that stitching.
[Music]
Unfortunately because this wool is so heavy and inflexible, this is how I have to take this hood off.
Barrows & Wights 