In this video, I’m weaving the fabric for my medieval tunic project.
– Ashford 24″ Rigid Heddle Loom
– 15 dpi rigid heddle
– warping board with removable pegs
– wire hook to draw threads through the heddle
– boat shuttles
– 8 skeins 100g fingering weight Blue-faced Leicester yarn hand-dyed by me
– lace weight linen/cotton blend yarn from WEBs – yarn.com
The tunic fabric is woven in a plain weave pattern and finished with a hem stitch before removing it from the loom.
Photo by Anton Atanasov
Logo designed and drawn by A.R. Gergler
Music: Lively Tavern by Alexander Nakarada
Free download: https://filmmusic.io/song/10031-lively-tavern
License (CC BY 4.0): https://filmmusic.io/standard-license
Photo by Anton Atanasov
[Music: Plucky medieval stringed arrangement]
Hello. My face has returned I guess. Um it’s August 10th and was it three days ago? two days ago? I finished warping up or not even warping up because they’re not on a loom. I finished measuring out warps for
the weaving of this tunic and I realized that I didn’t give any description to tell you what I was doing.
So basically this wooden frame that I have- this thing- is basically a way to do really long lengths of yarn or thread or whatever you need in a very small area. With the rigid head of looms usually the tutorials on how to warp them up are what we call direct warping where you have a wooden peg that you clamp a certain distance away from your loom. You clamp your loom to a table and you just loop your warp through your loom. That’s very difficult if you need something that is say three yards or longer. Also it’s very handy to measure out all of the warps ahead of time if you’re going to be doing a lot of weaving because it is very physical direct warping a loom with a long warp length.
So I have done these pairs of warps. Um I’ve labeled them all as you saw in the video so that I knew which ones belonged to which. Um there are two, two of these chains uh per woven piece because I can comfortably fit about 80 loops on this warping board without the pegs pulling out. Um and for example the body pieces are 128 loops per piece so I just divide that number in half for all of these so that I have two.
And that’ll help me later when I’m actually warping the loom because there will be a stopping point for a break in the middle which is good because it’s not a very comfortable thing to warp a loom. At least I’ve not found a comfortable way to warp a loom. You kind of just have to hover over it or kind of below to the side of it. It’s a thing. But you’ll see that later when I warp the loom.
So I have the first body piece which will be two halves of a front or a back and the longest body piece also includes some extra yardage for underarm gussets, that kind of stuff. So this- whoops, caught on the basket. A second body piece which is two halves of a front or back.
My dad just got home so the dog is barking.
Here she is. Pen, you’re on camera. You want to be on YouTube? He’s outside. Do you want to go outside? What?
As I was saying two chains for the gussets uh in the skirt part of the tunic and two for the length to cut out sleeves. I’m really glad I dyed those extra two skeins of yarn because um this is what I have left over out of eight 100 gram skeins of fingering weight yarn. This is what I have left over. That’s it. I’m not dying anymore of this yarn. What I got is what I got. So that’s where I’m at with this tunic project.
Good morning. It is Saturday November 6th. I am currently sitting in precarious spider land at the moment. Oh the heating’s turned off. Hooray. That will probably help with the sound in this clip a bit. Um yes, I’m sitting in precarious spiderland down here to hide from the, as you can see, incredibly powerful rays of the sun to give you an update on what’s going on with weaving. So I have finished weaving the gusset fabric which is looking great. So far I’m really pleased with it.
However this is the spool of the linen cotton yarn I’ve been using for the weft. I’ve used probably about half of this spool just for the gusset yardage, which I believe is the shortest piece to weave. So I have purchased two more just to be safe but- I don’t know if you can see it here on camera. Maybe. The lighting’s not great down here but it’s better than up there. -but the original is slightly more yellow than these two new ones which is why you want to buy as much yardage as you can all at the same time. It’s more likely to be from the
same dye lot.
I don’t know if the new yarn versus the old yarn will look significantly different woven up. We will see. The plan is to next warp up the warp yarns for these sleeve yardage and for that I will alternate the original yarn and the new yarn it has started back up again these will alternate so I can see if there’s any significant change between the two actually in the warp yarns. If there is, I will not continue using this on the body pieces because this will run out. But if it doesn’t look really any different, then I’ll just keep using this one until it runs out and then keep going with whatever is being used. So that’s the plan. So I will get back to uh weaving.